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[Sticky] Getting started  

I am Pete Admin

Using Robox for the first time:

  1. Install software from here first it is updated quite often so the software in the box is most likely outdated.
  2. After unpacking, removing internal packaging and checking all items are present and correct, plug the printer in while the software is running. It will ask to update the firmware, you should always allow this so firmware and software are matched.

It is best to stick with one filament type, this reduces contamination of materials and just keeps things simpler, avoiding blockages due to degraded or mixed materials.

  • Snip any bent or deformed filament from the start of the reel.
  • Poke this filament into the feed path, there are 2 inlets, use the top one.
  • Keep pushing it in, you will hear a motor start but keep pushing until you feel the filament being dragged from your fingers, the print head will also move to the right hand side.
  • Once loaded you should “purge”, you will find the button to do this at the bottom of the main status screen. This heats the bed and nozzles and flushes out the previous material in the head. All heads are tested with so there will be a coloured material in the nozzles already. Follow the instructions on the screen. If it asks for a purge temperature you should choose one which is suitable for both the new and the old material. 230°C is fairly safe for most but some require a higher temperature to make them liquid enough.

It will take around 3 mins to heat the bed, as the bed gets near temperature the nozzles will heat taking around 1 min.

The head will move around probing the bed, setting and testing heights. Then the nozzles will draw lines of filament across the bed surface.


You can try a print once this process is finished.

You may need to calibrate nozzle height and nozzle opening, leave nozzle alignment until you have done more prints. The calibrations are step by step and fairly simple, be sure to read each step as the calibrations set up various numbers which are used in the print process. The button to start calibration is in the status screen at the bottom.


Some models will load into AutoMaker in the wrong orientation, there is a button called “lay flat” click this and then click the surface you want to be the bottom. There are controls to change scale and orientation. If your model was designed in inches you will need to scale it 2540% to get the correct size.


Use the default settings for a few prints, try each one, draft, normal, fine. Small details may be missing on draft, if details are smaller than the nozzle used they may be ignored during a print, this mainly effects the XY plane, details on the side of items are built using Z and are less effected. There is more information about this limitation which is true of all FFF printers available online.

Support structures are generated automatically if the box is ticked, if you aren’t sure just tick the box. You will soon see how support works and is generated.

Fill density can be kept around or below 30% in most cases, parts are still very strong. Lower fill density uses less material and is much faster, there is also less shrinkage.



ThermoSurface is the print surface of a standard Robox. It should be slightly rough (see next post re. sanding) which can be done using some 320 or 400 grit sandpaper, it may require this when new and whenever parts are peeling up on their edges or not sticking at all. Be sure to remove the bed surface before sanding and clean it very well with water and then IPA when dry. Regular cleaning with IPA is the only other care required. NEVER put masking tape, hairspray or any other reprap recommended print surface on the Robox print surface, none of these come close to the bonding potential of ThermoSurface.

Remove the mini purge from the tip wipe blade before each print. Clear small bits of debris from inside the build chamber regularly. You can slide the black plastic cover under the front door out to the front of Robox and tip the whole unit forward to clear debris which falls into the space below the bed.



After 100 hours of printing you may need to put a drop of the included lubricant on some rails but never the top horizontal rail. Take care not to get any on the print surface. There are further directions for this online.



Purge any time a material is changed, purging when the same material is used but a different colour is up to the user. Check the head is tight occasionally, the screw is behind the head and is tightened by hand.



This may get debris build up with some materials. Ask the support team for advice.


If you have any problems please create a support ticket here

Feel free to add your own advice or suggest amendments to this below. It should remain simple and for first time users.

For official support please create a support ticket using this link

Posted : 4th March 2016 11:44 am
I am Pete Admin

Sanding the ThermoSurface bed surface will increase adhesion.

Remove the ThermoSurface sheet before working on it. Create an evenly roughened finish over the whole surface using 320 to 400 grit sandpaper, take care not to penetrate too deeply into the surface. Clean the bed very well using clean water, dry, then scrub again using IPA and a clean rag or tissue or the included wipes. Try not to touch the surface with your fingers as this may leave oil residue.

Repeat after around hundred prints, you can do small patches as required.

Clean with IPA after every 10 prints. The surface must not have any dusty residue.

For the machine on my desk I have one side rough and the other smooth, the smooth side I use for testing other materials which already bond very well, eg Nylon.

For official support please create a support ticket using this link

Posted : 8th March 2016 11:57 am
I am Pete Admin


Error- Filament not moving as expected

This error has many causes and most users will see it from time to time. It is there to prevent damage to hardware caused by excessive pressure in the nozzles or where filament is not moving when it should be.

Common causes are simple to diagnose. Report findings via a support ticket if printing is not possible.

Feed problem

Prepare the end of the material before feeding it in, snip the end square and remove any damaged or bent material, after extended slipping a small groove can been worn from the filament around 200mm from the end, this needs to be removed.

Is the material reaching the back of the head when loaded? If it does not flow, eject the material and inspect the end, is it melted? If not then the problem is a feed problem and no alterations to the nozzles will make material come out. It is best to eject the material, power off and remove the head. Check for obvious debris or obstructions in the extruder, the bowden tube and in the back of the head, ask for advice. DO NOT poke things into the back the the head, the feed path is curved, you will break it if you stick a screwdriver or something inside. When fitting the head ensure the power is off and the head is tightened firmly. Prepare the filament end and load again.

Flow problem

The simple way to test flow is to perform a purge, this is a controlled extrusion of material which is not effected by all the print settings and variables which are used in a normal print. Check the temperature graph, temperatures should be stable and not vary excessively.  Material should flow smoothly and easily making wiggly lines of extruded material on the print surface as it travels back and forth along the bed. Use a temperature which is suitable for your material, it can sometimes be beneficial to have a slightly higher temperature to make the material flow more easily but should be kept at a point where it will not burn any material which could remain in the nozzles. 230°C is a good purge temperature for standard Robox PLA and ABS. Do not increase the temperature excessively as this can burn material in your head and will void the warranty, always ask for support advice from a CEL service agent.

Try a nozzle opening calibration, this will open the needle valves fully to send material through the nozzle during the test. If the material does not come out see Feed Problem above to confirm the material is reaching the head and melting. If it is not melted on the end it will not be pushing material through the nozzles and is therefore not a flow issue.

After calibrating nozzles do another purge and watch for the slip error.

If after calibrating nozzle and checking for feed problems the slip error is still present during a purge. Check your filament profile. Filament diameter can be altered to match a physical measurement of the filament taken in several places along 3 metres of filament, your temperature settings need to be suitable for the filament and if needed reset the filament profile to a default as supplied with AutoMaker. Report your fault via a support ticket.

You do not have a blocked nozzle.

The needle valve clears the nozzle every time it closes, it closes a lot. From thousands of heads and through hundreds of hours of testing crazy materials at crazy temperatures we can count the blocked nozzles on one hand.

Reprap expert?

The common methods of resolving reprap flow issues do not apply to Robox, please read above.



For official support please create a support ticket using this link

Posted : 11th March 2016 10:07 am

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