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[Sticky] TIP: Filament wont feed or eject, stuck filament, can't eject, not printing.  

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Pete
 Pete
(@pete)
I am Pete Admin

If you get stuck filament and the Eject Stuck Filament button still does not allow an eject please read the page linked below and follow the directions carefully. There are several parts which may be damaged by pulling on stuck filament.

You will need to log in to see some content on the support portal below.

supportejectstuck

https://robox.freshdesk.com/support/solutions/articles/1000155185

If you need help please create a support ticket.

For official support please create a support ticket using this link www.cel-robox.com/support/

Quote
Posted : 28th July 2016 9:41 am
Andy
 Andy
(@originalcaruso)
Estimable Member

Thanks for posting the above tip, helped me fix my problem

I set a print running but failed to notice the wasn't enough filament to complete the job. I attempted to eject the filament and suspect the end of the reel had passed the motor, leaving a section of filament between the extruder and head

A purge seemed to clear the head but - no surprises - wouldn't eject the filament

Removing the head proved the filament wasn't stuck inside the head, removing the bowden connector allowed the filament to be pulled back

Pushing the eject button allowed the filament to move slightly, and a gentle pull finally removed the filament

Replacing the head and bowden connector the reloading all seems fine

Now to try another print

ReplyQuote
Posted : 19th November 2016 5:55 pm
Enginwiz
(@enginwiz)
Estimable Member

Today I my Robox Dual failed to eject Robox chroma green ABS filament.

In Automaker I noticed that the nozzles are only heated to 140 degrees Celsius during the eject routine and this is certainly not hot enough for ABS.

The Robox is still printing happily with the croma green Robox ABS, but it won't eject the filament.

How can I set the nozzle temperature for the left and right nozzle to 230 degrees Celsius during the eject routine?

ReplyQuote
Posted : 10th January 2017 8:07 pm
BHudson
(@bhudson)
Former USA Robox Support Moderator

@enginwiz 140 C is certainly hot enough to eject ABS. I do it all the time. However, I have found that if ABS is running on the lower extruder, the outside reel, the curve of the Bowden tube will reduce the ejection force enough for the eject to fail sometimes. In this case, I suggest using the "Remove Head" button in AutoMaker as this will move the head to the right before ejecting and that will make it easier for the extruder to pull the filament out.

If you have a failure to eject the filament, you should be presented with the "Eject stuck filament" option which will automatically do what you are asking. It does attempt to eject from the left side, though, so it may run into the same issue.

If that also fails, please open a support ticket so that a support engineer can assist you to determine if there is a problem that needs to be solved.

ReplyQuote
Posted : 10th January 2017 11:57 pm
Enginwiz
(@enginwiz)
Estimable Member

Thank you for your assistance. Your guess was spot on - the ABS was in the left nozzle.

The Robox had ABS loaded on reel 2 and neither the eject filament button nor the "Eject stuck filament" routine were able to unload the Croma green Robox ABS filament. However it was still printing well with the still loaded ABS.

I placed a large print on the right side of the printbed and while it printed the second layer I pushed the eject button on the printer to change filament. The print head stayed on the right side and unloading the ABS filament worked over there. Nevertheless it was a scary experience.

Now I am printing Colorfabb Ngen. Loading and unloading is not a problem with Ngen PETG.

Please consider moving the print head to the right side of the x-axis for the standard unload filament routine. I would also like to suggest to increase the nozzle temperature for unloading filaments. On my Replicator 2 I need at least 200 degrees Celsius to unload ABS filaments. Otherwise I have to rip the filament out of the hotend with brute force.

The freshdesk support article Pete mentioned in his posting is for the single material head. It should be updated for the new dual material head with the additional gcode commands to heat heat up the left or right nozzle.

ReplyQuote
Posted : 11th January 2017 7:20 pm
paulsroom
(@paulsroom)
Honorable Member

Well I have just upgraded to Automaker version 3.0.0 and everything was going swimmingly, but now it's all stopped.  I was using ColorFabb nGen without any problems, performing a purge for each colour change.  Then today I wanted one part in a colour that is currently not available in ColorFabb nGen but is in MGChemicals PLA.  I've used this make before without any problems using the standard PLA settings.

I can load and eject the filament okay  - I've gone back to loading ColorFabb nGen - but I can't perform a purge.  The printer goes through the routine of trying to print the sequence of lines, but the filament doesn't feed through.  I can see it trying to feed by the reel moving slightly but then jumping back.  No filament is getting through.

The eject stuck filament is greyed out, so I can't use that and the box of information normally shown on the left side of the screen in Automaker has disappeared.  I'm not sure why this is but clearly the filament must be stuck or the feed totally slipping.  I've read the support sheet and I am wondering how much dismantling I have to do in investigating the problem.  I'm assuming that this is a totally mechanical problem and nothing to do with software.

ReplyQuote
Posted : 17th April 2017 5:01 pm
BHudson
(@bhudson)
Former USA Robox Support Moderator

@paulsroom Why would you use "Eject stuck filament"? That is only used in the event that your printer fails to pull the material out of the print head. It has no other use.

Please open a support ticket so that you can get the proper instruction to sort your issue.

ReplyQuote
Posted : 17th April 2017 7:34 pm
Pete
 Pete
(@pete)
I am Pete Admin

With all feed problems it is best to first eject the filament and inspect the end, it should have melted a bit. Clip any deformed sections off and load it again. Try heating the head but don't allow the print to start.

Eject again and inspect again, if it has not melted at all then it is not reaching the melt chamber in the head.

Usually this type of block is a string of material which is inside the tube where it enters the head. Power off and remove the head. Try to remove anything in the feed tubes and in the rear of the head. Do not poke anything inside the head except filament as the inlet tubes are curved and can be damaged easily.

Use the manual purge instructions in the link at the top of this page.

For official support please create a support ticket using this link www.cel-robox.com/support/

ReplyQuote
Posted : 18th April 2017 4:45 pm
Nephanor
(@nephanor)
New Member

Been having this happen a couple times lately, but I think I figured out why it happens.  It seems to happen when I leave the printer for long enough that it cools down to room temperature, everything. I found that if I eject right after finishing a print, it tends to not do that.  Last time it seemed to not want to eject, I did a purge, then ejected, and it ejected fine.

ReplyQuote
Posted : 31st March 2019 6:02 am
BHudson
(@bhudson)
Former USA Robox Support Moderator

@nephanor Check that you are storing your filament correctly. The behavior you describe may be attributed to moisture in the filament causing the filament to swell in the head inlet as the head is cooling. Almost every filament on the market absorbs water from the air.

Also make sure you are letting the printer cool completely before turning it off. The head fan should continue to turn until the nozzles are below 60C. If you turn it off while the head is hot, the heat will seep into the filament inlet and cause the filament to swell in the inlet.

ReplyQuote
Posted : 31st March 2019 7:00 pm
Nephanor
(@nephanor)
New Member
Posted by: BHudson

@nephanor Check that you are storing your filament correctly. The behavior you describe may be attributed to moisture in the filament causing the filament to swell in the head inlet as the head is cooling. Almost every filament on the market absorbs water from the air.

Also make sure you are letting the printer cool completely before turning it off. The head fan should continue to turn until the nozzles are below 60C. If you turn it off while the head is hot, the heat will seep into the filament inlet and cause the filament to swell in the inlet.

Oh it's definitely not water. They are stored in an airtight container with a dehydration system. Not only that, my area of the world is pretty arid this time of year.  I actually need a humidifier in my bedroom or I wake up with bleeding noses.

As I mentioned it only happens when I let the system cool down before I eject the filament. If I eject it and then let it cool down before shutting off, no problem.

ReplyQuote
Posted : 31st March 2019 9:18 pm
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