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Test Cube - Settings 3rd party PLA  

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Hi,

Please help, I can't find the right setting. :(
What settings do I need to change?
printer: Robox Dual
print head: Quick Fill (new / 13hrs)
Used nozzle: 0,30mm
layer height: 0.20mm
Speed: 30mm / s
Flow: 95%
Infill: 20%
Material: Hobbyking PLA premium Gold
Recommended printing temperature: 215-240C
Printed Temperature: 215C
Bed: 60C
Software: Automaker PRO

Images:

 

Thanks

@nagyandrass

Based on the photos, I am seeing several problems:

1. Underextrusion on the perimeters. This is causing the gaps in the outer perimeters and the poor quality surface on the vertical walls.
2. Stringing.
3. Drooping of bridges.

First step is to make sure that you have calibrated the print head properly. Do all three calibrations. If that has been done you do not need to do it again, but the stringing points to a poor calibration.

Next, print a cube using the spiral mode. Take a pair of calipers and measure the thickness of the walls of the cube. They should be the same as the extrusion width set in your profile. If they aren't, increase the flow percentage by 2-3 percent and test again. Once the walls of your spiral printed test cube match the extrusion width in your profile, run your complex test again. This should resolve the issues you are seeing. If not, please post pictures of the new tests.

The drooping bridges can be solved with support material and reduced by opening the door to the printer during the print.

4 Answers
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Your images, you need to have a few posts before you can include images and links.

 

For PLA start by opening the door and keeping the build chamber cool. To prevent the door open warning you can disable the safety features in >Preferences (cog icon)>Printing> but must remember to close it for ABS or to avoid burns etc when the unit is hot.

 

For official support please create a support ticket using this link www.cel-robox.com/support/

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@nagyandrass

 

Have you run the new head through the 3 calibrations available in automaker?

 

@leecel

Hello
Yes, I did the calibration. Printing is still not nice.
I'm starting to lose patience with this tool. :(

@nagyandrass

can you attach a screengrab of the head eeprom page from the preferences please?

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@nagyandrass

 

Nothing looks amiss with these settings. Are all prints of this quality or only prints using this material?

 

@leecel

I have tried many types of filaments. Why does it a bump when it changes the layer or when it changes to a nose? Where can I set the retraction? Why does it make bubbles when the valve is closed or opened?

1571424837-IMG_20191018_204028.jpg
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Here is a another sample. 

1571424956-IMG_20191018_203921.jpg

@nagyandrass

Those blobs look like they are caused by the valve close when you pause. During a print the valve close occurs over a distance equal to the volume of the material ejected. This is calculated using extrusion width and layer height to ensure the blob does not appear in the print. If this is impossible the blob is placed in a fill area or spread backwards along a perimeter.

Is there a setting mode where you can disable valve closing and retracting instead?

@nagyandrass

No, there is not. The Robox print heads use the needle valves to control flow and do not use retraction. The SingleX print head uses retraction but the print quality is reduced and you will see more blobs and strings than you are seeing now. When I see the behavior you are reporting it is because the head has not been calibrated correctly or the filament profile isn't correct. I suspect you are using a custom filament profile and it needs to be adjusted, or your nozzle opening calibration is set too high. If you have calibrated the nozzle openings, you should have clicked "present" at the first indication of any material at the end of the nozzle, not when there was actual flow from the nozzle.

The blob I see in your square print picture is because the print was stopped. The head sat here for a minute and that caused the blob. The starting blob is due to the pressure in the print head being equalized. This is why I suspect your profiles aren't correct for the material.

I also see burned filament in your purge. This is an indication that the filament temperature is too high or that you aren't purging the head often enough, both of which can lead to filament flow issues and will eventually lead to damage to the print head. I would purge your print head until it is purging clean, then recalibrate the nozzle opening, counting to five between each check for filament ooze, and clicking present at the first indication of any ooze from the nozzle. Then do the cube in spiral mode and check your wall thickness to see if your extrusion multiplier is correct.

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