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Starter profile for Ninjaflex

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click
(@click)
Noble Member

Yes - that reflect what I experienced, too. To heat the head you can use

M104 S190

(or any other temp than 190 - can't remember what is for ninjaflex). Oh, and don't forget to shut it down at the end with:

M104 S0

Also, I used manually to pull the filament out with

G0 E-100

(or longer - substitute -100 with -200, etc). Also, at the same time, I would literally pull the ninjaflex filament out - helping extruder along the way. If not pulled out - extruder would just squash it behind it while thinning it on the other end causing gears not to have proper grip. It is worth pushing it in a bit, heat the head extrude a cm or so, and then pull it out (with G0 E-xxx command and at the same time gently pulling it by hand).

 

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Posted : 10th January 2017 8:34 am
Steven Fagg
(@stevepf)
Trusted Member

Thanks @click, this sounds exactly what I needed to know!

I'll try it later when I get home.

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Posted : 10th January 2017 9:38 am
click
(@click)
Noble Member

I'll do the same as I am due to print some tyres with ninjaflex and missed setting it up yesterday - so will be 'pushing on ninjaflex' this evening.

BTW don't forget using piece of bowden tube to feed it to the extruder if you are not already using it.

ReplyQuote
Posted : 10th January 2017 9:52 am
Steven Fagg
(@stevepf)
Trusted Member

@click, you sir are a life saver. That worked PERFECTLY.

I did use a piece of Bowden tube when inserting it as there were two included in the DM kit I installed a few months ago and read up that they were for flexible filament loading.

Once again, thanks! I'll have to do some research on all these G-codes.

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Posted : 10th January 2017 9:40 pm
click
(@click)
Noble Member

Glad to help. At least it worked for you! Yesterday I had hard time trying to print 3:30 print (abandoned it around 10-12 layer) - first if filament wasn't under some kind of gentle pressure after extruder (in bowden tube leading to the head) 'loaded' switch wouldn't be activated. Next, after a while index wheel stopped moving along the filament and it started detecting problems and complaining ever so often.

Might try today again :(

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Posted : 11th January 2017 8:11 am
Dave
 Dave
(@dodgydave80)
Eminent Member

My findings with Ninjaflex are the material reel needs to have as little resistance to movement as possible. Even the slightest resistance causes the material to stretch which means the encoder wheel won't turn at the rate expected in firmware. I ended up designing a bearing loaded reel holder which has allowed me to print without any issues.

The other issue I found is that the filament detection switch would not be activated with extruder two supplied as part of the dual material kit, but works fine with extruder 1 which has the upgraded grey housing.

ReplyQuote
Posted : 11th January 2017 9:11 am
click
(@click)
Noble Member

@dodgydave80 Yes. I've noticed that as well. As my Robox is at eye height I tend to get ninjaflex off the reel all way to the ground (and back again). If I need longer length for the print and not sure if I would be there to assist it (add pull more material off the reel and let it hang down) I put an object in parallel to the left side of Robox (usually just bottle with alcohol) and let another length to the ground and back on the 'other side' of that object. BTW It didn't help last night. But I'll start fresh today or tomorrow evening again.

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Posted : 11th January 2017 10:16 am
BHudson
(@bhudson)
Former USA Robox Support Moderator

@dodgydave80 You may want to open a support ticket for that extruder. I suspect the sensor isn't tightened fully.

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Posted : 11th January 2017 6:42 pm
click
(@click)
Noble Member

So far this post helped the most: after setting slip detection to 100 I didn't observe a single error.

M909 S100

I didn't save it and next 'reboot' of Robox is going to revert it back to '10'. But it seems that occasional issue with ninjaflex is somehow 'smoothed' by higher value in there.

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Posted : 16th January 2017 3:57 pm
Mika
 Mika
(@mikka)
Active Member

I have played with yellow NinjaFlex for over a week now and tried to find good settings for it, but it seems quite challenging. Started from the starter profile. Is there any step by step guide in which order all the parameters should be tuned? That kind of instruction could save a lot of time from beginners to 3D printing like me. Also some common symptoms of bad prints and related tuning would be nice to know. For example in picture attached. What would be the parameters I should tune to get rid of gaps lines? Should I increase the temperature (it is in the middle of the manufacturers recommendation)? Or should I decrease the speed (it is already very slow when checking the specs)? Or should I change the extrusion width (that's very nasty parameter; some low values seems performing better than higher values, but can't really say which is good since also the time of the day feels to matter meaning that same parameters not producing the same result every time)?

IMG_3371.jpg
ReplyQuote
Posted : 20th February 2017 12:45 am
Mika
 Mika
(@mikka)
Active Member

Seems we have better (more thick printing) paper (lots of forest and wood) here in Finland. :)

3D printing quality improved a lot after re-calibrating z-axis with more thin piece of paper (receipt of beer bought from local grocery shop). I tried to use my normal 80 g/m^2 printer paper for the calibration earlier.

Documentation could be improved related to this, or even the calibration paper slips included in a box.

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Posted : 21st February 2017 1:31 pm
Mika
 Mika
(@mikka)
Active Member

It's damn slow, but finally got some decent yellow NinjaFlex prints out. 100 % cooling fan and enough temperature. Pink is PLA and green is the real Lego.

ps. Seems this video has almost all info needed, but missing only 100 % cooling part and bed without heating:

IMG_3716.jpg
ReplyQuote
Posted : 5th March 2017 11:16 pm
stowy
(@stowy)
New Member Customer
Posted by: @pete

Place in your folder DocumentsCEL RoboxFilaments

 

We found that different colours have different needs. Please name your profile with the colour.

I just tried creating a profile like this, but when i try to print something it tells me "A Single X Head must be fitted to print 'abrasive' materials" but I couldn't find information that TPU was an abrasive material. Is there a way to remove the message ? Because it doesn't allow me to print.

 

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Posted : 19th February 2021 2:05 pm
Pete
 Pete
(@pete)
I am Pete Admin

@stowy Try adding the following line to the profile using a text editor

 

filled=no

 

I think this is because the profile is an older style. you could also create a new filament profile using the same settings and it shoud resolve the problem.

For official support please create a support ticket using this link www.cel-robox.com/support/

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Topic starter Posted : 22nd February 2021 10:24 am
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