Stock

And now my area has been restricted from the support portal

Thanks a million cel

Time to chuck it out the back and set fire to it

@jeffb Yes, that head cannot be repaired without replacing the entire heat block assembly. It usually isn't worth the time and effort required to clean the plastic out from around the parts that have to come off. You are better off buying a new head.

That is also a V1 head and the V2 are more reliable in my experience.

If you use the printer for hobby use I would definitely try to repair it. You will probably fail but it's worth a try. I have repaired heads on other 3D printers and it can be very easy (like Raise3D E2 heads) but on Robox there are the needle valves that might make it trickier. In the process I always use a heat gun that I use to careful and slowly heat the melted plastic. You can't use much heat or any PVC cables (PVC should be forbidden in this circumstances) but the plastic usually becomes soft without damaging any cables. Most of the times the cables are protected in the most critical areas.

A problem I have seen is the use of o-rings as gaskets in a faulty way. Not sure if this is the fact in Robox heads but I think they at least use o-rings. The problem is that some use o-rings without outer support as a seal from inside pressure. In this situation an o-ring can take almost no pressure and as soon as an abnormal (higher pressure than normal) situation occurs the o-ring will eventually be pressed out. A correct seal would have been some sort of harder gasket made of fiber material.

Just try it, you have nothing to loose and it is very educating. It might teach you a lot for future problems

If you use the printer for professional use

IE the Pro version you can still not get heads

Even though they sell the pro version with heads ???

so they do have them?????

@jeffb I would be surprised if the can deliver a RoboxPro is reasonable time even if it might look like that at the web shop.

@bengt Pulling it apart doesn't only look easy but is

Cleaning it is another question

A few photos here

1 this is definately not right seems to have been broken for quite a while

2 As much as a heat gun melts the petg it also flows everywhere

I was trying to just soften it at the front where most of it was but damn if it didnt flow backwards

3 Obviously leaking  on the right hand side here

The left just pulled away  now to tackle the rest of this mess

Apparently toluene will dissolve petg

what about the gaskets etc

More info from CEL would be nice

try again this is 1

this is 2

Inside those threaded parts with the needle lifters there is gaskets. I'm pretty sure they are o-rings. I even think I have seen someone fiddling with those before. Heat everything up a little bit and see if you can unscrew them and replace the gaskets. I of course do not know the size but I would try something like this instead of the o-ring seal.

https://se.rs-online.com/web/c/fasteners-fixings/nuts-washers/tap-washers/?applied-dimensions=4294473796,4294829107,4294857834,4294473792

@bengt Agreed

But those tap washers are to me way too thick

And way to large outside diameter

Yes I understand the Vulcanised fibre ones

Surely somewhere out there there are small thin high temp gasket types

I would suggest the big problem here is sealing against the needle anyway

So almost a valve type

ANd wait till I open something and see if the gaskets survive

that will be after I get some toluene

$35 for a litre it would seem

to dissolve all the petg inside the heat block etc